Twelve Milton Academy students embarked on an outdoor adventure in the jungles and pristine waters of Belize over spring break, paddling, hiking, snorkeling and sailing their way through the rich and diverse land and seascape. As part of Milton Academy's H. Adams Carter Outdoor Program, students in every class of the Upper School joined Outdoor Program staff member Kim Walker and her fiancé John Hultgren in a week long exploration of Belize lead by Island Expeditions.

On the trip, students learned about environmental issues and the diverse Belizean flora and fauna while experiencing the rich Central American and Caribbean cultures that characterize this beautiful land. On every stage of our journey, students were fortunate to learn from expert local guides, who enthusiastically shared their love of their beautiful country and rich cultural history with us. With sunny skies, warm tropical waters, lush jungles, knowledgeable guides, a packed itinerary and an incredibly enthusiastic student group, we enjoyed outdoor adventure travel at its best.

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Trip Journal
by Kimberly Walker

Day 1: After our arrival in Belize City, we were greeted by one of many local Island Expeditions guides, Bernaldo, who graciously introduced us to the sights in and around the capital city. Our destination for our first night was the Tropical Education Center outside of Belize City. Students were welcomed by balmy breezes and many calls of native birds at this environmentally friendly hostel. We settled into our quarters and explored the paths and decks around the center, and Bernaldo provided us with an introduction to the geography, history, and biodiversity in Belize. The first night activity was a memorable night walk through the Belize Zoo, an outstanding refuge for orphaned, injured, and rehabilitated animals down the road from our hostel. The zoo is home to over 125 native animals in a spectacular setting, emphasizing a natural habitat for the animals in the jungle. As students donned their headlamps and switched on their flashlights, we listened to the cacophony of sounds of the nocturnal animals who call the zoo home. Students were as awed by the sight of the fearsome Harpey Eagle, whose talons alone demanded respect, as they were by the big cats of the Belize, Pumas and Jaguars pacing inches from their camera lenses. The other cats in the zoo, the Margay, Jaguarondi, and Ocelot, impressed us with their beauty. The group also got up close and personal with the national animal of Belize, a shy Tapir who allowed us to scratch his ears. We received a less friendly greeting from the Howler Monkeys, the males' ferocious roar causing most of the group to cover their ears in horror. We were "serenaded" by the Howler Monkeys in the zoo and those living in the wild in the treetops of the area jungle for the rest of the dark walk, their calls carrying through the jungle to listeners a full mile away. The highlight of the evening was the students time with a very curious Anteater, whose powerful tail would wind around your wrist faster then you could imagine. Each student had a chance to hold the anteater, though she was clearly in charge as she made quick work of using her sticky tongue to taste watches, cameras, belts, and even ears! We returned to the Tropical Education Center to settle into our communal bunk rooms, sleeping to the sounds of the jungle around us.

Day 2: With an early start and a delicious breakfast, we were off for a day of caving and exploration in the recently opened caves of Actun Tunichil Muknal, site of ancient Mayan ruins featured in National Geographic Magazine. After a long bumpy ride on a dirt road and a beautiful hour long hike in the jungle (with perfectly timed river crossings to cool us off), students eagerly tossed their packs aside and enjoyed a riverside lunch and time in the water. There was as much time spent diving into the crystal green pool at the entrance of the caves as there was munching on fruit! The students were split into two groups of six, accompanied by a local guide and chaperone for the next three hours of caving. Donning our helmets and headlamps, we stashed our cameras in dry bags, and swam one by one into the magical entrance of these caves. For the next forty-five minutes we followed an underground river, wading, swimming, and walking our way towards the Mayan ceremonial center of the cave, using the expertise of our guides and our lights to guide us. After climbing and winding up the steep cave wall, we were awed by a massive crystalline chamber, with over eighty Mayan pots, stone tools, and ancient calcified skeletons, believed to be sacrificial victims. Stalactites and stalagmites were everywhere, and the glittering cave walls were dazzling to see. Home to spiders, bats, and crayfish, visitors can only imagine the Maya traveling through the river waters thousands of years ago. Though the cave has been excavated, it is primarily untouched, with the artifacts out in the open where they were found and no pathways, partitions, or permanent lighting invading the ancient site. We were asked to remove our shoes to help protect this fragile environment, and we followed each others' footsteps with precision to avoid stepping on any precious artifacts. All of the ceremonial pots were broken, and though the explanation of why is still debated, our guides offered one popular theory: the Maya broke the pots to let the spirits of the gods out. Everyone was hushed and stunned when we viewed the Crystal Maiden, a fully intact female skeleton believed to be a sacrificial victim, tucked back in a high recess of the cavern. We made our journey back from the cavern, following the river back into the bright midday sun. On our hike back to the jeeps, our guides pointed out various trees sacred to the Maya, and one guide had to draw his machete when a deadly Coral Snake made his way across our path. All agreed that our experience at Actun Tunichil Muknal was almost too good to be true, an otherworldly and fantastic adventure. We returned to the Tropical Education Center for a hearty dinner and to prepare for the next day's adventure.

Day 3: Awakened to the noisy calls of the area birds, we said goodbye to the Tropical Education Center and met our river guides for the morning activity. Using two person inflatable kayaks, the group descended a section of the Sibun River, a pristine and beautiful river with spectacular birding. We met our superb main Island Expeditions guide at this juncture, soft-spoken and knowledgeable Andrew, and enjoyed the expertise of a renowned Mayan guide, Greg, who toured reporters from National Geographic. As we paddled leisurely down the blue green waters, students spotted fish, scores of birds, and many plant species, all handily identified by Greg. We could not stump him the entire day, guessing he probably identified (with ease) up to fifty birds, plants, and fish over the course of our trip! We were also treated to a few iguana sightings on the riverbank before they scurried into the bamboo. We did not skip the ample opportunities for swimming and diving either, stopping three times to enjoy the waters and applaud the group's acrobatic skills. Along the way we were greeted by locals swimming, spear fishing, and washing in the river. After a lunch picnic style at the pull-out site, we deflated the boats, loaded up the vans, and made our way to the coast to catch our motor charter out to the island cayes. Along the way, we noted the differences from our inland destinations as we headed towards the sea, the reggae music and palm trees greeting us in the very Caribbean town of Dangriga. Using an assembly line, we loaded all of our personal and group gear packed in dry bags on to the boat. We met our other sea kayaking guide, Damasco, who soon became a group favorite for his good humor and irresistible cooking. All twelve students, two chaperones, two guides, and our captain piled onto the gear-laden boat for a bumpy, wet ride out to our first island home, Tobacco Range Caye. First impressions said it all: colorful tents dotted the sand between towering palms, a bright hammock swayed in the breeze, and our fleet of kayaks greeted us as we hopped off the boat and waded on shore. While Damasco and Andrew prepared one of many delectable meals, we unpacked and settled into our tent groups, exploring the beach, mangroves, and the abandoned house on site. We were quick to discover that it was dinner time for the frigate birds and pelicans too, and their aerial acrobatics kept us entertained with the backdrop of the first of many spectacular sunsets. Everyone slept well under the rustling palms and the strong winds off the reef kept us cool and sand fly free.

Days 4-6: With picture perfect weather and snorkeling conditions, the next three days were the best paddlers and divers could ever want. Though the sand flies kept us hopping that first morning on Tobacco Range, the taste of Andrew's French toast, Damasco's perfect eggs with Belizean favorite Marie Sharp's hot sauces, and a steaming cup of mate made all the bug bites worth it! After an introductory lesson about sea kayaking and the southern barrier reef, we paddled out to the breaking waves in the distance near Tobacco Caye, ready and eager for our first snorkel. On the way we were treated to periodic dolphin sightings, along with the appearances of multiple sting rays and even a giant sea turtle. After anchoring our kayaks together, the group paired off while Damasco prepared his fishing lines. In the first hour exploring the reef and sea grass beds, members of the group spotted Angel Fish, Parrot Fish, Barracuda, a giant Cobilla (which most of us thought was a Nurse Shark), Trumpet Fish, Jellyfish, Anemones, Starfish, and Conch (none of which were large enough to add to our soup for dinner). We stopped at the developed Tobacco Caye for lunch and a respite from the sun, before splitting up into two groups for the afternoon. Half the group paddled back to Tobacco Range to set up hammocks and read in the cool breezes and the rest went for the second snorkel of the day and were rewarded with a sighting of the largest lobster around. That night after dinner and clean-up, Andrew lead our adventurous group on a night paddle back into the mangroves to seek out crocodiles. Though the mosquitoes did their best to dampen our enthusiasm, we were greeted with three different pairs of red eyes glowing in our headlamp glare, though the crocodiles were determined not to give us a full viewing. After some ideal stargazing, our activities caught up with us and we went to bed early.

The next morning we broke down camp, packed in dry bags, and loaded our boats for our next island destination. We completed a long paddle along the reef, spotting rays and starfish along the way, stopping at a developed caye for lunch. We enjoyed a different type of snorkel, where the sea grass allowed us to see some different fish. After a brief lesson on sailing, each double kayak rigged up a sail and launched towards our home for the night, Coca Plum Caye. With strong winds making our journey easy, guides and chaperones "barnacled" their single kayaks on to student boats, and everyone enjoyed a free ride into the sunset. As novice sailors, the group did quite well, navigating around a reef and enjoying a paddle-free cruise! After setting up tents and enjoying dinner, many of the group members enjoyed more star gazing on the dock before bed.

The next morning, Damasco took us to the best snorkeling spot of all, right next door at Bread and Butter Caye. Damasco pointed out scores of sights, leading the group on a memorable underwater adventure, and showing us multiple Queen Angel and Princess Angel Fish. We went back to camp, packed up, and headed for our final island destination, paddling part way and sailing the rest. Andrew shared his expertise on the mangroves along the way, explaining the important relationship between the reef and the marine life the mangroves support. We reached our island under strong winds, eager to dry off and relax. Wading across to the next caye, we enjoyed civilization for a while, making ourselves at home for sunset on the docks and enjoying a cool drink at one of the local establishments. Back at the tents, Damasco treated us to our finest meal of the trip, a mouthwatering chicken soup, fried fish, fresh fruit, and even a cake for dessert.

The next morning we set out for Man-o-War Caye, a bird sanctuary for nesting frigate birds and boobies. Like a scene out of Hitchcock, we sat amazed at the sheer number of birds perching, calling, diving, and nesting on the mangroves. The male frigate birds were inflating a huge red pouch under their beaks to attract their mates, while the boobies were trying to protect their nests. Students brought along sticks to offer the birds for their nests, and the aerial tricks of the frigate birds as they caught the sticks in mid-air dazzled us all. We also stopped for our last snorkel, this time in the mangroves where immature fish and seahorses (as well as other fish looking for a meal) can be found. At last we came full circle back to Tobacco Caye, after four great days on the islands. We cleaned up our boats, packed the charter, and headed back to Dangriga, dirtier, saltier, tanner and even more spirited than when we left.

We settled into a local establishment Chaleanor's Hotel and enjoyed our first showers. Dressed to impress, we headed to an Island Expeditions guide's home for a lovely meal on his porch. From there, we were invited to a Garifuna cultural celebration with traditional drumming, dancing, and storytelling. The dancing was in an open air space with a sand floor, and as soon as the drumming began, the people of Dangriga came to join or watch the dancing, finding the dancing of a traditional dance, the punta, by American tourists understandably comic. Each student and chaperone, after instruction, danced one at a time in another traditional dance; the dance tells the story of a woman who sees a man lying on the beach, and she uses her machete to discover whether he is dead or alive. With the group's enthusiasm and good humor outweighing our dancing skills, everyone enjoyed watching and participating in this amazing celebration, two of our group even taking a turn on the drums.

Day 7: Our last day in Belize began with a traditional breakfast in a Dangriga café. From there we crossed the country via the gorgeous Hummingbird Highway to the Guatemalan border to visit the Xunantunich. This impressive site can be spotted from the road, as it rises above the dense surrounding jungle. We explored the three main plazas and climbed the steep main steps of El Castillo (the castle) for a breathtaking view, 135 feet high. Mayan carvings are still intact on the sides of El Castillo, and this late classic period site is amazingly preserved thousands of years later. Our guide, Bernaldo, answered questions about the Maya and the site before taking us to connect with our international flight home. Reluctantly, we said our goodbyes. We enjoyed every last possible minute in this amazing country and were grateful to our excellent guides and hosts along the way.